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I offer custom-drafted corset patterns for personal use. Please contact me for details or see here for more information.

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Drafting a Basic Sleeve Block - Part I

The fifth installment in the drafting series is all about drafting the basic sleeve block. And it is written by me(!) as a guest blogger for the series. I've reproduced the post below (with kind permission) for you my very own readers :) There are many seemingly different methods to draft a basic sleeve block. Although the practical aspects (steps, procedures) may differ, the objectives of each step is constant, no matter the how. But admittedly, some methods are easier to follow than others. Old school tailors and dressmakers would take only 2 or 3 measurement points and rely on instinct to draw out the sleeve cap and armscye, free-handing the curves about as often as they use French curves. The cutters on Savile Row all do it that way still, and I read somewhere that straight/square rulers are off limits to the apprentice cutter because nowhere on the human body is to be found a right angle! But of course, it takes years to go from apprentice to pro on The Row. We, ...

Drafting Part III - Adapting a Basic Sleeve for Other Styles

Originally published on Ikat Bag as part of a series on drafting a sloper. This is my final installment in the series on drafting sleeves. Now that you've learned how to draft and fit a basic sleeve block, you can use it to draft all types of sleeves! In this post, I'm going to show you how to adapt the sleeve block to create 4 different styles of sleeves; roll-up, gathered, puff, and bell . In some places on the internet, drafting books and on commercial patterns, different names are used for the various styles, but the ones I've used are sufficiently descriptive to limit future confusion. Also, I'm only going to show how to adapt the pattern on a short sleeve block. Let's start... Roll-up sleeve Like the name implies, this is a sleeve with a roll-up band at the bottom of the sleeve (or the sleeve hem). Take your short basic sleeve block and draw a reference line above the hem line, according to the width of your desired band. In the example, a width of 3/4" ...

How to divide serger thread into smaller spools - a silly kind of tutorial

Make no mistake - I hate serger thread! They shred and split and fly here and there when one is trying to thread the serger. BLACK serger thread is the worst! Black attracts a lot of static cling and the thread shreds and splits even more than the other colours :( That said, I still use it for some projects that really require it...like sewing up seams on jersey knits. The problem, as many of you are familiar, is that your store will only have the exact matching colour in a jumbo spool - and chances are that it won't fit onto your little home serger anyway! So what to do (short of buying 4 separate spools)? Some places/books will tell you to wind the thread onto bobbins. But you quickly run out, often in mid serge, and then have to rewind constantly. Not ideal for large projects. Here is what I do... Equipment: 1 electric egg beater carboard tubes Method: Get yourself 4 inner cardboard tubes. I cut the long tube of a used roll of tin foil - can't you tell? You can also just use...

Easy Shirred Tube Top

I have made a resolution to make a new post EVERYDAY (let's see how long that will last :p). In order to do that, I will post about current as well as old completed projects, maybe even a sewing story, or just pictures that appeal to me... Today's offering is a tutorial...of sorts... When I was pregnant last year, I was constantly hot and sweaty (the weather here was NO help) and was uncomfortable in anything that had sleeves or not made from light-weight cotton. Not feeling particularly energetic enough to make a proper maternity outfit, I remembered a top I had made the previous year that would fit my needs nicely. It was too small (OF COURSE) to fit my expanded rib cage and ballooning belly, so I made this cheery version out of cotton. I wore it a good 70% of the duration of the pregnancy and will willingly wear it still cos it's not a maternity blouse in the strictest sense. Here is the drafting how-to: measure your bust circumference and multiply this by 1.5. divide th...

Christmas Clothes 2009

This year didn't start off very well for us unfortunately. We were plagued with illness and, therefore, general miserable-ness. As any of you mothers out there know, nursing a sick child while sick yourself is not fun. The good news (for me, that is) is that when I finally recovered, I felt like a phoenix rising out of the ashes. I have a renewed sense of purpose and energy and overall, feel in much better spirits than I'd had in the whole of 2009. I really think the fish oil supplement I'd recently started on is responsible for this about-face (literally) in my outlook. So now, on to the good stuff :) We spent a lovely week in Singapore over Christmas and Nikhita stayed up, for the first time, late enough to open presents after all the guests and merry-makers had left for the night. In keeping with the tradition I'm trying to establish and maintain, I made clothes for all three of us to wear on Christmas Day. This year was not as hurried as last year but I still cut it...

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