Learn to draft
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In my last post, I showed how you might modify the Versatile Blouse pattern by reshaping the neckline, or adding a collar and/or sleeves.
Other than the Band Collar that I showed previously, the next easiest collar to draft is the Flat Collar, sometimes called a Peter Pan Collar. This type of collar lies flat against the shoulder line and the centre back; there is no rise at the back of the neck like on a regular shirt collar.
Shirt Collar Back
The flat collar itself is also highly versatile in that you can cut it into nearly any shape.
This tutorial uses the Versatile Blouse pattern as a base but it can be applied to any other blouse pattern with a flat neckline. Some other modifications or adaptations may be necessary but the basic steps should remain the same.
How to draft a Flat Collar:
1. Place the FRONT blouse pattern on a piece of drafting paper or standard A3-size paper is more than adequate).
2. Trace around the neckline,
shoulder and centre front (CF) of your blouse pattern.
3. On the tracing, remove the seam allowance(SA) at the shoulder. If there is SA on the CF, remove it as well.
4. Take the BACK blouse pattern. Fold down the SA on the shoulder.
5. Align the shoulder of the BACK pattern to the shoulder of the FRONT tracing.
6. Trace around the back
neckline and centre back (CB).
7. If there is SA on the CB,
remove it on the tracing.
8. Take note of the width of
the original SA on the neckline. For eg. ¼”. You will retain this SA that is already on
the tracing.
9. Mark the desired width of the collar on the CF and CB. For eg. 2”
10. Mark the desired width of the collar at the
shoulder. For eg. 1½”
11. Mark your desired collar spread. That is, mark how wide apart you’d like the tips of each half of the collar to be from each other. For eg. 2” total spread => 1” each side.
12. Do the same for the back of the collar.
13. Next, draw a smooth curve to connect all the
marked points.
14. Add your desired SA to the curve. Eg. ¼”
15. If you prefer a rounded tip, then just draw that in.
Your flat collar draft is done. You will need to cut out 4 pieces (2 symmetrical pairs) to complete making the collar. You might need an additional 2 pieces of interfacing.
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I started sewing at 9 years old. Yes, I was that child who cut old table cloths to make floral printed dresses for her stuffed animals. Two decades later, I quit a steady career in teaching to start my own business in the apparel industry. It's been a couple more decades and I can't seem to stop (yes, I have tried). So with a sense of joyous resignation, I continue to create custom clothing and patterns, and find time to teach drafting and sewing at my studio and online.
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ReplyDeleteMastering the art of drafting a flat collar adds a touch of sophistication to the versatile blouse pattern. This step-by-step guide unveils the secrets to seamlessly integrate a flat collar, elevating your garment's style. Whether you're a seasoned seamstress or a beginner, this tutorial ensures a polished finish, turning your blouse into a timeless wardrobe staple.
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Adding a flat collar to the Versatile Blouse Pattern sounds like a wonderful idea! Your tutorial on drafting this collar is incredibly helpful and timely. Collars can instantly elevate a blouse, adding a touch of sophistication and style. I appreciate how you've broken down the process step-by-step, making it accessible even for those new to sewing. red leather jacket emma swan Your attention to detail, from measuring and drafting to attaching the collar seamlessly, ensures a professional finish. I can't wait to try this technique and see how it transforms my blouse into a chic and versatile wardrobe staple. Thank you for sharing your expertise—I'm looking forward to more sewing tips from you!
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